Innsbruck
Innsbruck is one of two cities in Western Austria that border Germany. Innsbruck and Salzburg share a lot in common. The Salzburg portrait gallery is in Innsbruck. The Innsbruck gift shops sell merchandise for Salzburg. Both cities have excellent gelato. Both cities also have castles.
Yet the cities are also many miles apart, and of the two Innsbruck seems to be a bit more popular. People come to Western Austria for the Alps. The culture is really cool too, but let’s face it: hills are fun and mountains are beautiful. Innsbruck is a launching point for adventure. It is common to see people rigged up in harnesses coming down a cable car or people with kayak paddles hopping on trains. There are North Face and Patagonia stores in Old Town. And there are gondola stations that provide easy access to the mountains. The mountain biking trains are easily accessible from town. For someone who enjoys the outdoors, this place is a magnet.
There are a couple of tricks to getting around. First, most hotels can provide a Welcome Card that has free public transportation access if you stay at the hotel for more than two nights. This makes getting around a lot easier. Second, the best meals to be had are in Old Town, off the main tourist street and in the side alleys. Unlike France or Belgium, you won’t be looked down upon for speaking English. This is largely a tourist town, so they are used to visitors from around the world. English is the common language for many people.
The Ambras castle in Innsbruck is a bit of a fairytale. It is much more of an estate than a castle with the traditional ramparts and defensive positions. The castle was largely constructed in the 1500’s by Archduke Ferdinand II as his residence. Ferdinand was the son of Emperor Ferdinand I and ordered the castle built (or rather rebuilt over a 10th century fortification) as a gift for his wife. The castle was never used for defensive protection. Ferdinand II was a prolific collector of art and armor and arms, and many of the halls were used to display this impressive collection. As such, the family lived happily ever after and the castle became one of (the castle itself claims it is the) oldest museums in the world.
The coats of arms are more expansive than I’ve seen in other museums, including the London Tower which is known for its coats of arms on display in the White Tower. It is an impressive place to visit.
Getting to Ambras castle is a bit tricky. I used public transportation and took the #3 train to the end of its route and then followed Google Maps to the castle entrance. This took me under a major highway, through a neighborhood and up a fairly steep hill before reaching what turned out to not be the entrance. The entrance is carefully hidden without proper signage in the courtyard area. This is the only place where tickets can be purchased on site. The rest of the castle is accessible from the entrance to the lower castle.
Many hotels participate in a Welcome Card program with the city government. If you stay two or more nights in Innsbruck, your hotel can provide you with this card for discounts at many sites and, most importantly, free use of Innsbruck’s public transit system within the city.
A view of Innsbruck from my hotel room.
The cable car line is shown in blue. I was in a blizzard on my first day in Innsbruck at the top of the ridge.
The arched gate to Old Town Innsbruck.
Ambras Castle. Note the peacock on the steps. The castle claims to be the oldest museum in the world.
The Ambras Castle has halls filled with armor.
A peacock at Ambras Castle.
